PEMUTERAN

Four km west of Pulaki, 15 km east of Labuhan Lalang, 28 km east of Gilimanuk, and about 40 km west of Lovina, this is one of the most idyllic resorts in all of Bali. The tidy, black-sand, scenic beach leads to some of the island's best snorkeling, with great drop-offs just one km offshore. Visit Chris Brown's turtle hatchery. At night, the fishing boats light their lamps out on the ocean.

Visit the home selling singing perkutut (doves). Take a 'dokar' to Melanting Temple. Venture out to look for dolphins. From the small nearby fishing village you can rent 'jukung'. Good fishing along this gorgeous, inviting coast with a dramatic backdrop of mountains. In two hours you can climb to the top of the mountains to the west from where you can view either the sunrise and sunset.