MOUNT BATUKARU

Except for Bali Barat National Park, the pristine rainforest covering 2,275-meter-high Gunung Batukau is the only wilderness region left on this densely populated island. Known locally as Coconut Shell Mountain, this inactive volcano is the most westerly of Bali's three highest summits and completely dominates the regency of Tabanan.

On Batukaru's slopes is Pura Luhur, one of the island's national sad-kahyangan temples, seldom visited by tourists because of its remote location in the middle of a montane forest.

To climb Gunung Batukaru, hire a guide in Wangaya Gede village two-km south of Pura Luhur. From the outer courtyard of the temple, walk 200 meters to a small river, then cross the bridge and turn north up the steep trail through a thick, damp, slippery forest to the top. Only birdsong is audible and only the trail visible during the five to six hour climb. Though climbing it in one go is possible, most climbers rent a tent from their guide and spend the night near the top.

The view from Gunung Batukaru's overgrown summit is blocked by trees. A small temple of roofless stone shrines is on the top. Don't attempt this climb in the rainy season, and don't even try to reach Pura Luhur by road if you don't have a sturdy vehicle with a cooling system in good working order. If you're on a motorbike, you're going to get wet.